Mendocino California Motels - Mendocino CA Coast Motels, Ocean Front Motels
Bridget Dolan's Pub
The Griffin House at Greenwood Cove
Simply relax... and bask in the ocean breeze

 
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  Sunset Magazine
February 2002

Lonely, Lovely Mendocino Coast

Driftwood-strewn beaches and luxurious inns dot this undiscovered stretch of coast.

A gentle tapping at my window woke me the first morning I spent on the southern Mendocino County coast. The pitter-patter continued as fog kept condensing on the pane, though the heavy gray mist had drifted offshore by the time I'd finished breakfast.

Nearby, I found Greenwood State Beach littered with unearthly white driftwood, long strands of green and brown kelp, and huge logs. Sandpipers skittered over the coarse gray sand. Whitecaps dotted the water out to the horizon, where a seam of fog joined the sky with the sea. And no one else was in sight.

Along this sleepy, stunningly beautiful stretch of coastline, north of Sea Ranch and south of Mendocino, winter is glorious. California gray whales are migrating off the coast, tundra swans fill the plains, and the inns are at their coziest. The small towns of Gualala, Point Arena, and Elk are quiet during the off-season, and room rates at inns are often discounted. What's more, the beaches are empty-save for driftwood, gulls, hawks, and regular visits from the coastal fog.

The timelessness of wind, saltwater, and sand sank in on a stroll along this coast. The Point Arena Lighthouse is a good place to watch for whales, now heading south. The 1907 lighthouse, built after the 1906 earthquake damaged the original 1870 structure, stands on a sliver of a peninsula.

Just north of the 115-foot tower, a quarter-mile hike leads to the beach at Manchester State Park.
The sky had almost entirely cleared when I arrived. Overhead, a red-tailed hawk screamed out its call, agitating the little brown birds at the water's edge. The hawk drifted, riding an updraft, its screeching sound carrying over the thrum of the waves.

Creature comforts

I hiked back and took a short drive south to the Food Company, outside of Gualala. Loaves of freshly baked bread were cooling on racks by the window. I bought some, along with a warming lunch of shepherd's pie and roasted organic vegetables.

These comforts were all the more welcome because of the chilly day outside. And that, in a nutshell, is what makes this region so appealing: Though the coast is rough and damp, the inns along this stretch are indulgently luxurious. Several serve lavish, multicourse dinners for guests and visitors. And though there aren't many restaurants in the towns here, the few that exist are superb.

On the drive back, I passed herds of sheep and some cows in new green grass. At Moat Creek, I hiked out to the rocky pocket beach, then doubled back to take the trail up to the bluffs for a higher view. Farther north, surfers braved the cold, magnificent swells near Point Arena pier. I scanned the sky, hoping to see tundra swans on the Garcia Plain north of the lighthouse.

Back at the inn, a fire warmed the sitting area. From the dining room, I watched the sun start to drop behind the sea, reaching reluctant pink fingers into the sky before it went. It was a nice way to end a wind-tossed day-pasta and sun-dried tomatoes on my plate, a glass of Pinot Noir, and the massive rocks hunched in the Pacific below me fading to gray and then black. Eventually, the ocean darkened and disappeared too. All that remained to remind me of the rough coast outside was the regular rush of the waves and the gentle tapping of fog at the window.

Dining

Bridget Dolan's Pub & Dinner House
Irish pub serving clam chowder as well as bangers and mash. 5910 S. State 1, Elk; (707) 877-1820.

Queenie's Roadhouse Cafe
Breakfast and lunch in restored garage built in 1901. Tasty omelets, grilled sandwiches, and burgers. 6061 S. State 1, Elk; (707) 877-3285.

Food Company
Homey, wholesome lunches, with picnic tables and a patio for lingering. Closed Jan 22-Feb 13. On State 1, 1/2 mile north of Gualala; (707) 884-1800.

Harbor House Inn
Prix-fixe dinners Fri-Sat. 5600 S. State 1, Elk; (800) 720-7474, (707) 877-3203, or www.theharborhouseinn.com.

Activities

Arena Cinema
Nice old art theater on Point Arena's main strip. 214 Main St., Point Arena; (707) 882-3456.

Greenwood State Beach
A short, relatively steep trail leads to a driftwood-covered beach. Park in the lot on the west side of State 1, across from the Elk Store; (707) 937-5804.

Manchester State Park
North of Point Arena Lighthouse, this park includes a long stretch of beach (more than 5 miles) that's good for walking. Parking at end of Kinney Rd., Manchester; (707) 937-5804.

Moat Creek Trail
Short (1/4-mile) hike to a pocket beach. Catch great views from the top of the trail up the bluff. Parking area is 13 miles north of Gualala off State 1.

Point Arena Lighthouse & Museum
Daily tours of the lighthouse. Museum has exhibits on shipping and navigation. 11-3:30 daily; $4. 45500 Lighthouse Rd., Point Arena; (707) 882-2777.

Point Arena Municipal Pier & Boat Launch
Surfers gather nearby when the waves are good; you can fish off the end of the pier without a permit. End of Iversen Ave., Point Arena.



Please call (707) 877-3422 for reservations and information.
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© The Griffin House Inn and Bridget Dolan's Pub
5910 S. Highway One, P.O. Box 190, Elk, California 95432
E-Mail: griffinn@mcn.org    Technical Comments: Technical Comments
(707) 877-3422